Here is where I started

Here is one of the first pictures taken of my bike when the project started. 

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The bike had been sitting for a couple of years, with gas still in the tank.  When I pulled and drained the tank, I couldn’t believe how much rust actually came out; I’m not talking rust colored stale gas, I mean actual rusty metal.  In talking with a co-worker, I was lead to POR-15 (http://www.por15.com/), a product to seal gas tanks, and protect various metals.  They offer a kit for small engine gas tanks that runs about $50.00 with shipping.

Before you embark on this task make sure you beg, borrow or steal a disposable pump, some rubber gloves, and a heat gun.  Cooerse one or two of your not-so-smart friends into helping with the promise of beer and manly bonding, as I did this alone and it proved interesting.

The first step in sealing the tank is to remove the pep-cock or in my case the fuel pump, and anything else that you don’t want permanently sealed, such as the gas cap.  You’ll then have to seal the pep-cock hole so the fluid doesn’t leak out.  I worked with the tank upside down, and used Gorilla Tape to seal the gas cap opening because it was easier to work with the fuel pump opening, and I could get a better seal on the gas cap opening. A bicycle inner-tube, or some other piece of rubber and a big hose clamp would have been much nicer, as my tape leaked often. 

You’ll then step through the products; marine cleaner first, then metal etch, then the POR-15 (which is like a paint).  The marine cleaner removes the film from the tank that is left by the gasoline, and also works some on the rust.  The metal etch does more to clean off the rust, and alters the Ph level of the surface of the tank for adhesion purposes for the POR-15.  Throuh each of the steps the liquid in the tank will have to be agetated, rolled around, shaken, stirred, etc…  (here is where your not-so-drunken (you don’t want them to drop the tank) buddies come in, I suspended my tank with rope from the rafters).  Each of these volitile steps is suppose to go for at least 20 minutes.  Then the stuff is drained, and the next is put in.

When you get to the POR-15, the tank has to be completely dry (thus the heat gun, but don’t go crazy, you don’t want to ruin your paintjob).  POR-15 is basically thick silver paint.  With the shape of my tank (very thin on top to allow for the air box), it was tricky getting every spot covered.  I would hold the tank in one position for a few minutes to let all the liquid pool, then quickly flip the tank over so the liquid would land on a hig spot that I could not otherwise get the liquid to flow over.

Once you’ve coated the tank, you need to remove any excess, otherwise it will harden in your tank forever.  make sure you clean out any holes that you need, such as the path to your pep-cock.  I bought a cheap siphon pump at HarborFreight and used it throughout the entire process (with the flanges on my tank, it’s impossible to thruoughly drain all the liquid.  After pumping out the POR-15, I through the pump away.  The tank cures for something like 4 – 7 days, and then you’re ready to go…

Because my bike sat for so long, I pulled the fuel pump apart and cleaned it out.  I was again surprised at how much rust came out.  A word of caution, fuel pumps are not cheap (I think mine cost about $550.00 if I needed to replace it).  And what’s worse, is that, at least with my bike, I couldn’t buy just new seals, or just a new pressure regulator; I had one option according to the dealership, buy a new pump.  I did find Ron Ayers (http://www.ronayers.com), a great site for OEM parts, and much cheaper than the dealerships!  There I could at least get a few more part options and about  20% chaeaper than the dealership.

My sweat and toill left me with a shinny reward.  I now have a clean silver gas tank with no rust.